Visiting the Saint Ouen Flea Market in Paris

History of Les Puces de Saint-Ouen

Origin of the flea market

Markets on this site have been in operation since 1870. During the urban reforms of Napoleon III, chiffonniers, known in English as ragpickers or rag-and-bone men—people who collected discarded materials like fabrics, metal, and yes, bones, to resell them—were pushed out of the city and settled on the outskirts to the north, in Clignancourt. In fact, the term “flea market” originated right here. The resold mattresses and clothes, picked up off the streets, often had fleas and parasites in them. That’s definitely not the case anymore!

Evolution of the flea market

By 1885, the city of Saint Ouen began requiring permits from the vendors, and the official flea market was born. Parisians began to frequent the market; they knew it was where they could find not just textiles, but also furniture, decorations, and even weapons. However, it wasn’t until the 20th century that permanent structures were put in place so vendors could store their wares onsite. Over the decades, the flea markets expanded and became home to more expensive goods, sought after by collectors and decorators. The public also discovered the treasures that could be found inside, and nowadays, even celebrities can be spotted browsing the antiques!

The flea market today

In all, 12 different covered markets and five market streets, each with their own specialties, comprise the seven hectares of Les Puces de Saint-Ouen. Together, the markets’ 1,700 vendors welcome over 5 million visitors per year to the biggest antique market in the world!

How to spend a day at the Paris Flea Market

Best markets to visit

The markets can be overwhelming and a bit confusing to navigate. Here are my top 5 recommended markets to wander. 

• Marché Biron: High-quality antiques and paintings, in particular 19th century pieces, can be found along this 100-year-old market street, called Rue des Rosiers.
• Marché Serpette: Housed in an old automobile garage, this market is now recognized for its luxury furniture, especially in the styles of Art Deco and Art Nouveau.
• Marché Paul Bert: Located just next to Serpette, this market started right after WWII and specializes in industrial and late 20th-century furniture. 
• Marché Dauphine: Here, vintage fashion and mid-century modern furniture are housed under a vaulted glass ceiling.
• Marché Vernaison: The oldest section of the permanent market, the foundations of which were built just after the First World War, this market looks almost like a little village.

And if you meander into another market, don’t worry! Each has its own character and interesting discoveries inside.

Coffee and lunch stops

When it’s time to refuel, stop into one of these local spots right in the flea markets!

Kick off your shopping day at Harry’s Coffee, located on Rue des Rosiers. Offering specialty coffee and pastries in a quirky, cozy interior, this shop will get you in the mood to wander the market’s winding streets and stalls.

For a fun cultural experience, stop for lunch or dinner at La Chope des Puces, where you can enjoy classic French dishes and live jazz music on Saturdays. 

Nestled right next to the Serpette market, Le Comptoir des Puces offers quintessentially French dishes made with fresh ingredients, with special attention to presentation and warm service.

Practical information

Here are some useful tips for planning your trip to the Saint Ouen Flea Markets.

When is the flea market open?

Les Puces de Saint-Ouen are open on Friday: 8 am to 12 pm and on Saturday, Sunday, and Monday: 10 am to 6 pm. While technically open on Friday and Monday, the flea market is best experienced on the weekend, when all the stalls are open. 

How do I get to the flea market?  

The Saint Ouen Flea Market is accessible by Metro, Bus, or Tramway; I've listed the transit lines and corresponding stops below.

• Metro line 4: Porte de Clignancourt
• Metro line 13: Garibaldi
• Metro line 14: Mairie de Saint-Ouen
• Bus 85: Paul Bert
• Bus 95: Porte de Montmartre (the terminus)
• Tram T3b: Porte de Clignancourt

Upon alighting, you may have to walk a few minutes to get to the market. Follow signs for "Puces de Saint-Ouen."

Navigating your way through the flea market

As you approach the market, it might look a bit shabby or a little hectic. Plenty of vendors have set up on the outskirts, selling counterfeit goods and trinkets. Keep going further inside; the heart of the market is where you can find real treasures.

Buying

Although some vendors do accept credit cards, it’s wise to keep cash on hand in case you do decide to make a purchase. Bring an extra tote bag with you to carry and protect your souvenirs.

For the antique enthusiast, thrift shopper, vintage poster fan, or if you just want to get out of the city, let yourself get lost in Les Puces de Saint-Ouen for a memorable Paris experience. You never know what you might find!